How to Start a Collection

How to Start a North American Pocket Watch Collection (1850–1950): A Comprehensive Guide for Antique Collectors

Collecting North American pocket watches from 1850 to 1950 is a rewarding pursuit that combines history, craftsmanship, and mechanical ingenuity. This guide is designed for antique collectors new to pocket watches, covering essential topics such as watch sizes, jewel count, case styles and materials, winding styles, railroad standards, brand tiers, strategies for building a collection, where to find watches, and maintenance tips. Each section includes detailed explanations, historical context, and practical collector strategies to help you start and grow a collection. For a brief history of pocket watches, visit this page.

Watch Sizes

Pocket watches are categorized by size, measured in “Lancashire gauge” (S), where the diameter of the movement is expressed relative to a standard of 1 5/30 inches. Sizes range from small ladies’ watches to large men’s watches.

Most Popular Sizes: 16S and 18S

  • 16S (1 11/16 inches): Common in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, especially for men’s watches. Popular for railroad-grade watches due to their balance of portability and readability.
  • 18S (1 23/30 inches): Dominant in the mid-19th century, often found in earlier American watches. Larger and heavier, they were favored for their durability and visibility.
  • Why they matter: Larger sizes (18S) were easier to manufacture early on but became less practical as portability became a priority. 16S became the standard for railroad and everyday use by the 1890s.

Other Sizes: 0S, 10S, 12S, 14S

  • 0S (1 inch): Tiny watches, typically for women, often pendant-style. Rare and delicate, used in jewelry-like settings.
  • 10S (1 7/16 inches): Smaller men’s or larger ladies’ watches, less common but versatile.
  • 12S (1 9/16 inches): A transitional size, popular in the early 20th century for dress watches.
  • 14S (1 5/8 inches): Less common, often used in specialty or mid-grade watches.
  • Collector note: Smaller sizes (0S, 10S) are harder to find in good condition due to their fragility, while 12S and 14S may offer unique designs at lower costs.

Collector Tips and Strategies

  • Start with 16S or 18S: These are the most available and have the widest range of styles, brands, and price points. They’re easier to service due to plentiful parts.
  • Seek variety: Once comfortable, add a 12S or 0S for diversity. Smaller sizes often appeal to collectors interested in ladies’ watches or ornate cases.
  • Check fit: Ensure cases match the movement size. Mismatched cases (e.g., an 18S movement in a 16S case) reduce value unless historically significant.
  • Focus on condition: Larger sizes (18S) are more durable, but smaller sizes (0S) are prone to damage. Inspect for cracks in dials or worn pivots.

Jewel Count

Jewels in pocket watches are synthetic ruby or sapphire bearings that reduce friction in the movement, improving accuracy and longevity.

What Jewels Do

  • Jewels serve as low-friction bearings for the watch’s pivots (e.g., balance staff, wheel arbors). They reduce wear compared to metal bushings, ensuring smoother operation and less need for lubrication.
  • Why more jewels are better: Higher jewel counts typically indicate more complex movements with additional features (e.g., chronometers, regulators). They also suggest higher quality, as jewels were expensive to produce and install.
  • Common counts:
    • 7 jewels: Basic time-only movements, with jewels in the balance and escapement. Found in low-end watches.
    • 15–17 jewels: Standard for mid-grade watches, including jewels in the train and pallet. Common in railroad-grade watches.
    • 19–23 jewels: High-end or railroad-approved watches, with extra jewels for complications or enhanced durability.
    • 25+ jewels: Rare, often in luxury or exhibition watches, though some additional jewels may be decorative.

Historical Context

Early watches (1850s) often had 7–11 jewels due to cost. By the 1880s, advances in synthetic jewel production made 15–17 jewels standard for quality watches. Railroad standards (post-1890s) required at least 17 jewels for accuracy and reliability under demanding conditions.

Collector Tips and Strategies

  • Start with 15–17 jewels: These offer a balance of quality and affordability. Look for brands like Waltham or Elgin.
  • Verify jewel functionality: Some watches advertise high jewel counts, but extra jewels may be non-functional (e.g., decorative cap jewels). Check movement diagrams or consult a watchmaker.
  • Aim for railroad-grade: 17–21 jewel watches are desirable for their precision and historical significance.
  • Beware of fakes: Low-end watches may have “jewel” markings but use glass or plastic. Inspect under magnification for clarity and color.

Case Styles and Materials

Pocket watch cases protect the movement and reflect the owner’s status and style. Cases evolved significantly from 1850 to 1950, with distinct styles, materials, and manufacturing practices.

Case Styles

  • Hunter Case: Hinged cover over the dial, often engraved. Popular in the 19th century for protection and elegance. Common in high-end watches.
  • Open-Face Case: No cover, with a crystal exposing the dial. Dominant by the 1900s, especially for railroad watches, as covers could obstruct quick time checks.
  • Half-Hunter Case: Rare, with a small window in the cover to view the time without opening. A compromise between hunter and open-face.
  • Sidewinder: Open-face watches with the stem at 3 o’clock (vs. 12 o’clock). Often conversions from hunter cases.

Case Materials

  • Gold: High-end, often 14K or 18K. Solid gold cases were expensive; gold-filled (a thick gold layer over brass) was more common.
  • Silver: Popular in the mid-19th century, especially for key-wind watches. Sterling silver (92.5% pure) was typical.
  • Gold-Filled: A brass core with a bonded gold layer (e.g., 10K or 14K). Durable and affordable, dominant by the 1880s.
  • Base Metal: Nickel, steel, or chrome-plated brass. Used in low-end or late-period watches (1930s–1950s).
  • Coin Silver: Made from melted U.S. silver coins (90% silver), common in early American watches (1850s–1870s).

Casing Practices

  • Jeweler Casing: Until the 1880s, many watches were sold as movements, and jewelers selected cases to suit the buyer’s budget and taste. This led to a variety of case-movement combinations.
  • Case-Only Companies: Firms like Dueber, Keystone, and Philadelphia Watch Case Co. specialized in cases, offering styles from plain to ornate. Their marks (e.g., “Keystone” or “Dueber”) are found inside cases.
  • Integrated Manufacturers: Some companies, like Waltham and Hamilton, produced both movements and cases for consistency, especially for railroad-grade watches. Elgin also cased many of its watches by the 1900s.
  • Examples:
    • Waltham: Made movements and some cases but often paired with Keystone or Dueber cases.
    • Elgin: Produced movements; jewelers often cased them in gold-filled hunter cases.
    • Hamilton: Known for integrated production, especially for railroad watches in open-face, base-metal cases.

Collector Tips and Strategies

  • Prioritize gold-filled open-face: These are affordable, durable, and widely available. Look for 20–25-year guaranteed gold-filled cases for longevity.
  • Seek original pairings: A movement and case from the same era or manufacturer (e.g., Waltham movement in a Waltham case) adds value. Check serial numbers and case marks for consistency.
  • Inspect for wear: Gold-filled cases can wear to brass, reducing value. Avoid cases with dents or heavy scratches.
  • Consider hunter cases: They’re visually striking but more expensive. Start with a mid-grade brand like Illinois in a gold-filled hunter case.
  • Research case marks: Learn to identify makers (e.g., “Keystone” or “Fahys”). This helps date the watch and assess authenticity.

Winding Styles

Winding styles evolved from key-wind to stem-wind mechanisms, reflecting technological advances and user convenience.

Key-Wind (1850s–1870s)

  • How it works: A key is inserted into the back or center arbor to wind the mainspring and set the time. Common in early American watches.
  • Why it evolved: Keys were easily lost, and winding was cumbersome. The need for faster, more reliable operation drove innovation.
  • Examples: Early Waltham Model 1857, Elgin’s first watches.

Stem-Wind, Lever-Set (1870s–1900s)

  • How it works: A crown at the pendant winds the mainspring. Time is set by pulling a lever (often under the bezel) to engage the setting mechanism.
  • Why it developed: Stem-winding was faster and eliminated keys. Lever-setting prevented accidental time changes, crucial for railroad watches.
  • Examples: Waltham Vanguard, Illinois Bunn Special.

Stem-Wind, Pendant-Set (1880s–1950s)

  • How it works: The crown winds and sets the time by pulling it out (modern watch style). Simpler and more user-friendly.
  • Why it evolved: Pendant-setting was cheaper to produce and suited non-railroad watches. By the 1900s, it became standard for most watches.
  • Examples: Elgin Grade 345, Hamilton 992B.

Historical Context

Key-wind watches dominated until the 1870s when stem-wind patents (e.g., by Adrien Philippe) were adopted in America. Railroad standards (1890s) mandated lever-set mechanisms for safety, as pendant-set watches could be accidentally reset. By the 1920s, pendant-set watches were the norm for general use, while lever-set remained for railroad-grade watches.

Collector Tips and Strategies

  • Start with stem-wind, pendant-set: These are the most common and easiest to use. Look for 16S Elgin or Waltham watches.
  • Add a key-wind for history: Early key-wind watches (e.g., 18S Waltham) are affordable but require a key (often missing). Buy a reproduction key if needed.
  • Prioritize lever-set for railroad watches: These are highly collectible. Check for “lever-set” markings or a setting lever under the bezel.
  • Inspect winding mechanism: Worn stem-wind clutches can slip, and key-wind arbors are prone to wear. Test functionality before buying.

Railroad Approved vs. Railroad Grade

Railroad watches are a cornerstone of American pocket watch collecting due to their precision and historical significance.

Railroad Grade

  • Definition: Watches designed to meet railroad standards for accuracy, durability, and readability. Typically 16S or 18S, with 17–23 jewels, lever-set, and adjusted to 5+ positions.
  • Features:
    • White porcelain dials with bold Arabic numerals.
    • Lever-set to prevent accidental time changes.
    • Adjusted for temperature and multiple positions (e.g., pendant up, dial up).
    • Minimum 17 jewels for low friction.
  • Examples: Waltham Vanguard, Hamilton 992, Illinois Bunn Special.

Railroad Approved

  • Definition: Watches certified by railroad companies or inspectors for use by employees (e.g., conductors, engineers). Approval varied by railroad, with some accepting lower-grade watches.
  • Key difference: Not all railroad-grade watches were approved (e.g., due to failing inspections), and some approved watches were lower grade (e.g., 15 jewels) in early years.
  • Historical note: Post-1893, standards tightened after accidents like the Kipton, Ohio, train wreck, leading to stricter requirements.

Collector Tips and Strategies

  • Focus on railroad-grade: These are the gold standard for collectors due to their quality and history. Start with a 16S Hamilton 992.
  • Verify markings: Look for “Railroad Grade,” “Adjusted,” or “21 Jewels” on the movement. Some watches have railroad-specific engravings (rare).
  • Beware of fakes: Non-railroad watches may be cased in railroad-style cases. Check for lever-set and positional adjustments.
  • Research standards: Learn the requirements of major railroads (e.g., Santa Fe, Pennsylvania). This adds context to your collection.

Brand Names: Low, Medium, and High End

American pocket watch brands vary widely in quality, rarity, and collectibility. Below are examples across price tiers.

Low-End Brands

  • Ingersoll: Known for “dollar watches,” mass-produced, low-jewel (7–11), base-metal cases. Affordable and rugged but less precise.
  • New York Standard: Simple movements, often 7 jewels, gold-filled cases. Common in the 1890s–1920s.
  • Collector note: Great for beginners due to low cost ($75–$200) and availability. Often found in flea markets.

Medium-End Brands

  • Elgin: Produced millions of watches, from 7-jewel to 21-jewel railroad grades. Reliable and versatile.
  • Waltham: Similar to Elgin, with a wide range of grades (e.g., Model 1892, Vanguard). Known for innovation.
  • Illinois: Mid-to-high quality, with strong railroad watches (e.g., Bunn Special). Attractive dials and engravings.
  • Collector note: Ideal for intermediate collectors ($200–$650). Look for 15–17 jewel, gold-filled open-face watches.

High-End Brands

  • Hamilton: Premier railroad watchmaker, known for the 992 and 950 series. High precision, 17–23 jewels.
  • Howard (E. Howard & Co.): Boutique brand, small production, 17–21 jewels, often in solid gold cases.
  • Ball: Not a manufacturer but a distributor of high-grade watches (made by Waltham, Hamilton). Railroad-focused.
  • Collector note: Expensive ($650–$5,000+), but highly sought after. Focus on railroad-grade models for investment potential.

Collector Tips and Strategies

  • Start with Elgin or Waltham: These are plentiful, with grades from low to high, allowing you to learn the market.
  • Upgrade to Illinois or Hamilton: Once experienced, add a railroad-grade watch for prestige.
  • Research grades: Each brand used grade numbers or names (e.g., Waltham’s “Vanguard,” Elgin’s “B.W. Raymond”). Higher grades mean better quality.
  • Avoid overpaying for low-end: Ingersoll watches are charming but rarely appreciate in value.

How to Start a Collection: From Simple to Expensive

Building a pocket watch collection requires a strategic approach to balance cost, quality, and variety.

Beginner Level ($75–$275)

  • Focus: Low-end brands (Ingersoll, New York Standard) or low-grade Elgin/Waltham (7–11 jewels, gold-filled, open-face).
  • Why: Affordable, widely available, and forgiving for learning repair and maintenance.
  • Strategy:
    • Buy working watches to understand mechanics.
    • Stick to 16S or 18S for easy parts access.
    • Look for clean dials and minimal case wear.

Intermediate Level ($275–$1,200)

  • Focus: Mid-grade Elgin, Waltham, or Illinois (15–17 jewels, gold-filled, open-face or hunter). Include one railroad-grade watch.
  • Why: Better quality, historical significance, and moderate investment potential.
  • Strategy:
    • Research grades (e.g., Elgin Grade 345, Waltham Model 1892, Hamilton 992 or 992B).
    • Seek lever-set railroad watches for authenticity.
    • Add a hunter case for visual appeal.

Advanced Level ($1,200–$5,000+)

  • Focus: High-end Hamilton, Howard, or Ball watches (17–23 jewels, railroad-grade, gold or gold-filled). Include rare sizes (0S, 12S) or complications (e.g., chronographs).
  • Why: Prestige, rarity, and strong appreciation potential.
  • Strategy:
    • Target specific models (e.g., 23 jewels Waltham Vanguard with Wind Indicator , Illinois Sangamo Special, etc.).
    • Seek original boxes, papers, or railroad engravings.
    • Invest in professional servicing to maintain value.

Collector Tips and Strategies

  • Set a budget: Allocate funds for purchases, repairs, and servicing. Expect 10–20% of purchase cost for initial servicing.
  • Diversify: Collect across sizes, brands, and styles to keep the collection engaging.
  • Document purchases: Record serial numbers, grades, and condition for reference and resale.
  • Join communities: Engage with groups like the NAWCC (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors) for advice and networking.

Where to Find Pocket Watches

Sourcing quality pocket watches requires exploring multiple channels, each with pros and cons.

Antique Shops and Flea Markets

  • Pros: Hands-on inspection, potential bargains.
  • Cons: Limited selection, risk of overpriced or damaged watches.
  • Tip: Bargain politely and check for authenticity (e.g., movement markings).

Online Marketplaces (eBay, Etsy)

  • Pros: Vast selection, competitive prices.
  • Cons: Risk of misrepresentation, shipping damage.
  • Tip: Buy from sellers with high ratings and clear return policies. Request movement photos.

Auction Houses (Heritage, Sotheby’s)

  • Pros: High-end watches, often with provenance.
  • Cons: Expensive, with buyer’s premiums (15–25%).
  • Tip: Set a strict budget and research comparable sales.

Watch Shows and NAWCC Local Chapters Marts

  • Pros: Expert sellers, rare finds, networking.
  • Cons: Travel costs, overwhelming selection.
  • Tip: Bring a loupe and checklist to evaluate watches on-site.

Estate Sales and Local Classifieds

  • Pros: Hidden gems, low competition.
  • Cons: Time-consuming, hit-or-miss.
  • Tip: Build relationships with estate sale organizers for early access.

Collector Tips and Strategies

  • Use a loupe: Inspect movements for rust, cracks, or missing parts.
  • Check serial numbers: Cross-reference with brand databases (e.g., PocketWatchDatabase.com) to verify age and grade.
  • Ask for history: Provenance (e.g., railroad employee ownership) adds value.
  • Avoid “Frankenwatches”: Watches with mismatched parts (e.g., Elgin movement in a Hamilton case) are less collectible.

Maintaining a Pocket Watch Collection

Proper care ensures your watches remain functional and retain value. Maintenance includes winding, servicing, and storage.

Winding Frequency

  • Continuously vs. Occasionally:
    • Continuous winding: Not recommended. Daily winding stresses the mainspring and increases wear. Only wind watches you wear or display regularly.
    • Occasional winding: Ideal for most collections. Wind every 1–2 months for 10–15 turns to keep lubricants fluid and prevent seizing.
    • Why: Pocket watches run for 24–36 hours per wind. Over-winding can damage the mainspring, while under-winding lets oils congeal.
  • Tip: Use a consistent schedule (e.g., first of the month) and record winding dates. For key-wind watches, use a properly sized key to avoid stripping.

Servicing Frequency

  • How often: Every 3–5 years for watches in regular use, 5–7 years for those wound occasionally.
  • What it involves: Disassembly, cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment by a qualified watchmaker. Expect costs of $100–$250 per watch.
  • Why: Oils dry out, and dust accumulates, causing wear. Regular servicing prevents costly repairs (e.g., replacing pivots).
  • Tip: Choose a watchmaker experienced with American pocket watches (check NAWCC referrals). Request documentation of work done.

Storage and Handling

  • Storage:
    • Keep watches in a dry, stable environment (50–60% humidity, 60–75°F).
    • Use padded boxes or display cases to prevent scratches.
    • Avoid direct sunlight to prevent dial fading.
  • Handling:
    • Use clean hands or gloves to avoid oil transfer.
    • Open cases gently to avoid hinge damage.
    • Store keys separately for key-wind watches to prevent loss.
  • Tip: Insure valuable watches and photograph them for records.

Collector Tips and Strategies

  • Prioritize servicing for high-end watches: A serviced Hamilton 992 is more valuable than an unserviced one.
  • Learn basic maintenance: Cleaning cases or crystals is safe with proper tools (e.g., microfiber cloths, jeweler’s polish).
  • Monitor condition: Check for signs of oil drying (e.g., sluggish balance wheel) and service promptly.
  • Preserve patina: Avoid over-polishing cases, as original wear adds character.

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